{"id":236,"date":"2014-02-02T13:38:35","date_gmt":"2014-02-02T21:38:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/?p=236"},"modified":"2019-07-09T11:03:25","modified_gmt":"2019-07-09T09:03:25","slug":"travels-deeply-south","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/travels-deeply-south\/","title":{"rendered":"Travels Deeply South"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Photos from a whirlwind trip to the Deep South are <a title=\"American South Flickr Set\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/36217981@N02\/sets\/72157640209502276\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">online<\/a>.\u00a0 Your lucky correspondent traveled in the fourth week of January, and not the fifth; I missed out on the wince-making weather <a title=\"Atlanta recovers from paralysing winter storm but roads remain dangerously icy\" href=\"http:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/world\/2014\/jan\/30\/atlanta-recovers-paralysing-winter-storm-roads-dangerously-icy\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">miseries<\/a> recently described in big fonts on news sites.\u00a0 The needle dipped below freezing in Birmingham, Atlanta and Asheville, but skies remained clear and dry, and I suffered nothing worse than chilled fingers while touristing about with my camera.\u00a0 Georgians stranded overnight in snowbound traffic on Interstate 285 won&#8217;t have much sympathy to spare for me.<\/p>\n<p>In the mid-nineties I visited New Orleans for a science conference, but that had been the extent of my travels down south.\u00a0 The press warned ominously of growing <a title=\"Red, blue states move in opposite directions in a new era of single-party control\" href=\"http:\/\/www.washingtonpost.com\/politics\/red-blue-states-move-in-opposite-directions-in-a-new-era-of-single-party-control\/2013\/12\/28\/9583d922-673a-11e3-ae56-22de072140a2_story.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">polarization<\/a> between red and blue states, and most of the red states seemed to be in Dixie.\u00a0 I am retired now, have time to travel.\u00a0 Why not see the South for myself?<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_242\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-242\" style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/charleston_house_500_578.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-242\" src=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/charleston_house_500_578.jpg\" alt=\"House in Charleston, South Carolina\" width=\"500\" height=\"578\" srcset=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/charleston_house_500_578.jpg 500w, https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/charleston_house_500_578-259x300.jpg 259w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-242\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">House on East Battery Street in Charleston, South Carolina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>A few newcomer impressions:<\/p>\n<p><strong><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">Southern courtesy isn&#8217;t make believe.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>I look, talk, act &#8212; and, for all I know, smell &#8212; like a Yankee, and had expected my California accent to earn at least an occasional hostile once-over while refueling my rental car in the Deep South boonies.\u00a0 My expectations had been shaped largely by Hollywood, after all; didn&#8217;t I remember how Rod Steiger had snarled at Sidney Poitier over a lukewarm cola in <em>Heat of the Night<\/em>?<\/p>\n<p>Well, no one like Mr. Steiger snarled at me.\u00a0 Maybe I was lucky, but I will no longer dismiss posts like <a title=\"Southern Manners\" href=\"http:\/\/pjmedia.com\/instapundit\/131000\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">this one<\/a> as wishful thinking.\u00a0 Even the gas station attendants were nice.<\/p>\n<p><strong><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">At least superficially, the South is more thoroughly integrated than the North.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>This is controversial.<\/p>\n<p>An Asian friend who visited the South frequently in decades past experienced small discriminations never encountered out west.\u00a0 Mississippi minister John Sanders, met by happy chance while strolling Jackson&#8217;s downtown, noted that electorate decisions often break along ethnic lines.\u00a0 Jackson has a black mayor because Jackson is mostly black.\u00a0 In contrast, white lawmakers retained the Confederate symbol on the state flag because they had the votes to get their way.\u00a0 How &#8216;thoroughly integrated&#8217; is that?<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_243\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-243\" style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/sanders_500_693.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-243\" src=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/sanders_500_693.jpg\" alt=\"Ministers pose at Fallen Fire Fighters Memorial\" width=\"500\" height=\"693\" srcset=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/sanders_500_693.jpg 500w, https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/sanders_500_693-216x300.jpg 216w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-243\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">John and Daisy Sanders pose at Fallen Fire Fighters Memorial in Jackson, Mississippi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Just the same:<\/p>\n<p>I included the Lakeshore megachurch in my itinerary after reading that it boasts the largest denomination in the country.\u00a0 I&#8217;ll have to fall back on the same homely phrase: the 8:30 a.m. service on January 19 was the most thoroughly integrated I have attended in a lifetime of admittedly irregular churchgoing.\u00a0 I say this less because of a tallying-up of represented ethnicities than because of the easygoing vibe I sensed while there.\u00a0 I don&#8217;t know much much else about Lakeshore, and don&#8217;t want to hold it up as an exemplar of other virtues, but at least give it credit on that score.<\/p>\n<p>At a morning breakfast buffet in Hoover, Alabama, in the cheerful give-and-take at a Charleston delicatessen, in a Birmingham supermarket: the comfort level between the races simply felt different than the norm out west.\u00a0 In the South blacks and whites seem thoroughly used to each other.<\/p>\n<p><strong><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">Houston deserves special attention from transit geeks.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>This is not because Houston is a transit city &#8212; trust me, it&#8217;s not &#8212; but because Houston may be the leading example of the Other Way.\u00a0 I have never visited a place so dependent on car ownership.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_245\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-245\" style=\"width: 640px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/joe_wolf_photo.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-245\" src=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/joe_wolf_photo.jpg\" alt=\"Highway 290 and Sam Houston Tollway\" width=\"640\" height=\"347\" srcset=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/joe_wolf_photo.jpg 640w, https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/joe_wolf_photo-300x162.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-245\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">On westbound 290 in suburban Houston.\u00a0 Photo by Joe Wolf, Flickr.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>To explain why, I will offer two points gleaned from reading Texas author Oscar Slotboom&#8217;s excellent, even-handed <a title=\"Houston Freeways web site\" href=\"http:\/\/houstonfreeways.com\/\">Houston Freeways<\/a>:<\/p>\n<p>(&#x2666;)\u00a0 Houston cut back on freeway construction when the nationwide &#8216;freeway revolts&#8217; struck in the 50s and 60s, but then grit its metropolitan teeth and forged ahead with more freeways in the 70s.\u00a0 Los Angeles, in contrast, held the line with the Century\/105 freeway, opened in 1993.<\/p>\n<p>(Give credit where credit is due here, incidentally.\u00a0 Houston does seem to have &#8216;built their way out of it,&#8217; although transit experts have assured repeatedly that this can&#8217;t be done.\u00a0 Houston led the nation in traffic congestion in the early eighties, and is now ranked seventeenth on the Inrix <a title=\"Inrix scorecard\" href=\"http:\/\/scorecard.inrix.com\/scorecard\/\">scorecard<\/a>.)<\/p>\n<p>(&#x2666;) Houston encouraged what might be termed &#8216;freeway oriented development&#8217; with a gridwork of frontage roads, a.k.a. &#8216;feeders.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p>Mr. Slotboom describes this system in <em>Freeway Metropolis<\/em>, his book&#8217;s second chapter.\u00a0 (The book is available as a free .pdf on the website, although used hard copies go for north of $90 on <a title=\"Amazon: Houston Freeways\" href=\"http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Houston-Freeways-Historical-Visual-Journey\/dp\/0974160539\/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1391367943&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=%22Houston+Freeways%22\">Amazon<\/a>.)\u00a0 If you&#8217;re willing to open a new browser window, I&#8217;ll be honored to show you:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Load Houston, Texas into <a href=\"http:\/\/maps.google.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">maps.google.com<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>Zoom in on a freeway &#8230; say, the Sam Houston tollway, or the Katy freeway.\u00a0 Zoom in close.\u00a0 You can do it!\u00a0 Click that mouse.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>See how many of the freeways are paralleled by &#8216;service roads?&#8217;\u00a0 See?\u00a0 The <em>Sam Houston Parkway<\/em> runs to either side of the <em>Sam Houston Tollway<\/em>.\u00a0 The <em>East Freeway Service Road<\/em> and <em>Eastext Freeway Service Roads<\/em> flank the <em>East Freeway<\/em> and <em>Eastext Freeway<\/em>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>Browse around a bit.\u00a0 You&#8217;ll find your own examples.\u00a0 Lots of them.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>Click on a few of those feeder\/frontage roads, and drag the little orange Google Street View icon for an up-close view.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Why, my goodness!\u00a0 Just <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">look<\/span> at all the businesses on those feeder roads!\u00a0 Shopping centers, office complexes, vets, barbers, beauty salons, hotels (like the one I slept in) and churches (like the one I visited): on and on and on they go, punctuated by the occasional onramp, so the shopper can jump on the freeway again.\u00a0 &#8220;Texas U-Turns&#8221; allow drivers to duck under freeways to change course on one-way frontage roads without dealing with stop lights or signage.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_246\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-246\" style=\"width: 640px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/judy_baxter_photo.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-246\" src=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/judy_baxter_photo.jpg\" alt=\"Highway 288 north toward Houston\" width=\"640\" height=\"428\" srcset=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/judy_baxter_photo.jpg 640w, https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/judy_baxter_photo-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-246\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Highway 288 north toward Houston. Photo by Judy Baxter, Flickr.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The older I get, the more I see wisdom in finding points that disputants in a debate can agree on.\u00a0 (At least if they disagree sincerely, and aren&#8217;t being paid to tote polemical water for a given side.)\u00a0 So I&#8217;ll settle for three points about car-oriented Houston infrastructure before moving on:<\/p>\n<p>(&#x2666;)\u00a0 It exacts a vastly larger environmental toll than transit oriented development.\u00a0 It&#8217;s not earth friendly.\u00a0 At all.<\/p>\n<p>(&#x2666;)\u00a0 It&#8217;s permanent.\u00a0 Infrastructure can be expanded, but it&#8217;s very unusual to tear down megadollar stuff that works and replace it with something new.\u00a0 Alternative designs for the San Mateo Bridge aren&#8217;t ever going to happen.\u00a0 You built it, you got it, you use it, you keep it, you&#8217;re stuck with it.\u00a0 I&#8217;m glad I had the chance to get a good shot of the Houston Red Line, but I can&#8217;t see how it&#8217;s going to change things much now, unless Houstonians make a colossal, unprecedented commitment to rail infrastructure.<\/p>\n<p>(San Franciscans curious about how such freeway-oriented development might have panned out are invited to swallow hard and look at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.kqed.org\/news\/105321\/what-would-san-francisco-have-looked-like-without-the-freeway-revolt\">this map<\/a>.\u00a0 Thankfully, the much-maligned NIMBYs protested these plans; that&#8217;s why we don&#8217;t have a freeway blasting through Glen Canyon.)<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_247\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-247\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/houston_fannin_south.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-247\" src=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/houston_fannin_south.jpg\" alt=\"Houston Red Line approaches Fannin South station\" width=\"600\" height=\"498\" srcset=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/houston_fannin_south.jpg 600w, https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/houston_fannin_south-300x249.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-247\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Houston Red Line approaches Fannin South station<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>(&#x2666;)\u00a0 It is widely regarded as unattractive.\u00a0 Houston has Hermann Park and some nice blocks in the Montrose district, but I can&#8217;t speak as charitably of other acres there, and the <a title=\"Keep Houston Ugly\" href=\"http:\/\/houston.culturemap.com\/news\/city-life\/10-19-13-dont-hate-houston-because-were-ugly-the-virtues-of-being-a-city-nobody-likes\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">popularity<\/a> of &#8216;Keep Houston Ugly&#8217; t-shirts and bumper stickers suggests that Houstonians can&#8217;t, either.\u00a0 One travel web site anointed Houston as the single <a title=\"The top 10 ugliest cities in the world\" href=\"http:\/\/www.ucityguides.com\/cities\/10-ugliest-cities-in-the-world.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">ugliest city<\/a> in the country.<\/p>\n<p>But, to be fair: you can afford a house in Houston, and drive your clean, cozy, private car to work on a relatively uncongested freeway, and park your car without taking out a payday loan.\u00a0 Maybe you won&#8217;t get to stroll around beautiful San Francisco, but you won&#8217;t have to wrinkle nostrils overwhelmed by the musky, all-natural stench of a drunk next to you, or wrestle your way out of a jammed Muni bus, either.<\/p>\n<p>(Although I feel obligated to digress here, and note that I haven&#8217;t ridden a jammed Muni since climbing onto a 29 loaded with 49er Faithful bound for the last game at Candlestick.\u00a0 When will my luck run out? I keep wanting to pinch myself.)<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\"><strong>Southerners are about the same as folk everywhere else.<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p>A few sensed my disappointment, and suggested that I visit much more rural towns in search of the paleolithic types I had half-expected.\u00a0 In fact, a group of Birmingham atheists quickly identified one small Alabama town that might serve as a last bastion of bad old days racism.\u00a0 (Which I won&#8217;t name, because I didn&#8217;t go there, might slander the place, and also might inadvertently reward it with bus loads of tourists.)<\/p>\n<p>I will no longer put the South in a different mental category, or approach travels there with a different mindset.\u00a0 I was absolutely charmed by many I met.\u00a0 I hope to return.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Photos from a whirlwind trip to the Deep South are online.\u00a0 Your lucky correspondent traveled in the fourth week of January, and not the fifth; I missed out on the wince-making weather miseries recently described in big fonts on news sites.\u00a0 The needle dipped below freezing in Birmingham, Atlanta and Asheville, but skies remained clear&hellip; <\/p>\n<div class=\"readmore-wrapper\"><a href=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/travels-deeply-south\/\" class=\"more-link\">Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[46,49,48,47],"class_list":["post-236","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-deep-south","tag-freeways","tag-houston","tag-mississippi"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - 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