{"id":2550,"date":"2022-07-17T19:36:16","date_gmt":"2022-07-17T17:36:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/?p=2550"},"modified":"2022-07-17T19:36:16","modified_gmt":"2022-07-17T17:36:16","slug":"bruges-belgium-first-impressions","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/bruges-belgium-first-impressions\/","title":{"rendered":"Bruges, Belgium: First Impressions"},"content":{"rendered":"

Bruges<\/a> is a small medieval city in Belgium’s West Flanders province, near the Atlantic coast. Even the grandiose “tourist wonderland” may understate. UNESCO named the whole durn city center<\/a> as a world heritage site. Lonely Planet<\/a>, Rick Steves<\/a>, Fodors<\/a> and TripAdvisor<\/a> gush about Bruges unreservedly.<\/p>\n

‘Why visit?’ answers itself. A better question for a retired Madrid expat might be: ‘Why didn’t I visit earlier?’ Daily direct flights link Madrid to Brussels, Belgium’s capital. Train travel from Brussels to Bruges is a no-transfer cakewalk.<\/p>\n

\"Belfry<\/a>
Belfry at Grand Market Square at dusk in Bruges, Belgium<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

So why wait until 2022? Did some nineteenth century Flanders chorizo<\/em><\/a> make off with my great-great-great grandmum’s waffle iron? What’s my excuse?<\/p>\n

The embarrassing truth is that I had extrapolated inappropriately from past chats about Brussels. Several Madrid acquaintances think tourists can safely omit Belgium’s capital from sightseeing bucket lists. Bruges is emphatically \u2260<\/span> Brussels, but I had unconsciously let yak about the capital color my expectations for the rest of the country. Inexcusable!<\/p>\n

GETTING THERE<\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Brussels Airport adjoins an SNCB train station. I flew inside the Schengen Area<\/a> security zone, so needed all of fifteen minutes to reach this station entrance after saying my \u00a1Hasta Luego!<\/em> to the Iberia flight attendant.<\/p>\n

\"SNCB<\/a>
Entrance to SNCB train station at Brussels Airport<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

See the ticket machines at the left side of the shot? Seat61<\/a> says that I could have arrived ticket-less, easily could have bought a ticket on the fly and hopped on the appropriate train, as in my January travels in Switzerland. Personal experience suggests that this is likely correct, as I remember English fluent, blue-uniformed staff at both the airport and Bruges rail stations.<\/p>\n

But, I hadn’t forgotten my travails<\/a> with rail station vending machines in France. The official belgiantrain.be<\/a> web site sells tickets (without reserved seats) that are valid for any train boarded on the designated route on the designated day. I bought my tix in advance with a U.S. credit card, used them without issue. One less hassle to worry about on trip day.<\/p>\n

\"View<\/a>
View from Carmersstraat bridge in Bruges, Belgium<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

(I presume that I also could have bought tix from SNCB’s international site<\/a>, which shows comfortable rail treks from Amsterdam, Paris, London and other cities.)<\/p>\n

My IC 2833 arrived on schedule. I found a window seat in a nearly empty car, but was joined by many other riders as the train stopped at three more stations in Brussels proper; by the time we left Brussel-Zuid, my car was full.<\/p>\n

IN BRUGES<\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Bruges is home to almost 120,000 Belgians, but we tourists drag our rollaboards and brandish selfie sticks within the UNESCO-anointed city center. Said center is conveniently encircled by the nine kilometer R30<\/a> ring road, which mostly follows the route of Bruges’ fortifications of ages past. The train station is a few football pitches southwest of the ring road; one may walk the one and a half kilometers from train station to Bruges’ Market Square nucleus in twenty minutes. I saw public transit buses in the old town, but never rode or investigated their routes, and presume that most visitors do their touristing entirely on foot.<\/p>\n

\"Grand<\/a>
Grand Market Square in Bruges, Belgium<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Bruges easily joins Strasbourg and Prague on my personal ‘most beautiful cities of Europe’ list. The shots accompanying this post are representative; a Bruges sojourner can expect to see plenty more of the same in the old town. I intend to put this list on a figurative back shelf, as I realize now that Europe offers many other smallish burgs that merit inclusion. The recipe might be:<\/p>\n

(♦<\/span>)\u00a0Begin with an urb that qualified as a metropolitan heavy hitter in centuries past. Bruges was a big league European trading hub in the fourteenth century; the Oude Beursplein<\/a> spawned the Bourse, likely the world’s first stock exchange.<\/p>\n

(♦<\/span>)\u00a0Add landscaping, and\/or an architectural standout. The Bruges, Strasbourg and Prague waterways; Segovia’s aqueduct<\/a>; \u00c1vila’s walls<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"View<\/a>
View from Maria’s bridge in Bruges, Belgium<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

(♦<\/span>)\u00a0Protect your future treasure from idiotic military conflicts. Germans occupied Bruges in both world wars, but didn’t break anything important. Segovia fixed the mess left by Al-Mam\u00fan in the 11th century.<\/p>\n

(♦<\/span>) The rest may take care of itself. A medieval trader’s no-nonsense warehouse will blossom into a ‘classic of Gothic architecture,’ given time.\u00a0 Wandering pioneers will discover the city, spread the word. An ever-larger fraction of the local private sector will pursue tourism $\u20ac\u00a5 — in restaurants, hotels, tours, gift shops — and will complain quickly and lustily about anything resembling blight. Presto, chango: a tourism mecca.<\/p>\n

AMERICANS AND SPANIARDS<\/span><\/h3>\n

I heard far, far more American-accented English in Bruges than in any other locale yet visited in Europe. I’ll bet I could have buttonholed sightseers at random to ask if Harris Ranch<\/a> is still stinkin<\/a>‘ up the troposphere next to<\/a> the 5 in the San Joaquin and received an up-to-date nose-witness account within ten queries. (Although I might not have enjoyed the responses given by the other nine.)<\/p>\n

\"View<\/a>
View on north side of Maria’s bridge in Bruges, Belgium<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

British-accented English? Relatively little, for reasons unknown. But the Bruges visitor can expect to hear nearly as much espa\u00f1ol<\/em> as ingl\u00e9s<\/em>. Spanish traders operated field offices here in Bruges’ Middle Ages hey day, but me thinks the explanation is that Bruges is a known good thing, and relatively close.<\/p>\n

WHO SHOULDN’T GO?<\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Dieters.<\/p>\n

Beer, chocolate and waffles are tourist staples in Bruges, and local merchants are past masters in the offering of all three. I missed my Bruges waffle, but bought an excellent chocolate sampler from a merchant on the Wollestraat, and still marvel at the glass of Queue De Charrue Brune<\/a> sampled at Bieratelier<\/a> on Wijngaardstraat.<\/p>\n

\"Hendrik<\/a>
Hendrik Pickery statue by path in Poertorenpark<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

(Consider that I was impressed enough to jot down those four words that I wouldn’t dream of trying to pronounce, and to hunt them up later online. But, I’ll admit: a beer buff I’m not.)<\/p>\n

A suite next to a twenty-four hour International House of Pancakes might rival Bruges as an ill-advised vacation pick for a dieter.<\/p>\n

ODDS N’ ENDS<\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n

(♦<\/span>)\u00a0 It’s Bruges in English, Brujas in Spanish, Brugge in Dutch. Three words, same place.<\/p>\n

\n

For full-size editions of most of the shots above, and a few others, please visit the photo directory:<\/p>\n

https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/files\/bruges\/<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Bruges is a small medieval city in Belgium’s West Flanders province, near the Atlantic coast. Even the grandiose “tourist wonderland” may understate. UNESCO named the whole durn city center as a world heritage site. Lonely Planet, Rick Steves, Fodors and TripAdvisor gush about Bruges unreservedly. ‘Why visit?’ answers itself. A better question for a retired… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2542,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[53,61],"tags":[174,175,176],"class_list":["post-2550","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-europe","category-travel","tag-bruges","tag-brugge","tag-brujas"],"yoast_head":"\nBruges, Belgium: First Impressions - Travel<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"An American expat shares tourist impressions of Bruges, Belgium\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/bruges-belgium-first-impressions\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Bruges, Belgium: First Impressions - 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