{"id":2812,"date":"2023-09-06T09:59:43","date_gmt":"2023-09-06T07:59:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/?p=2812"},"modified":"2023-09-06T09:59:43","modified_gmt":"2023-09-06T07:59:43","slug":"tarragona-via-iryo-renfe-high-speed-rail-competitor","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/transitophile.com\/chango\/tarragona-via-iryo-renfe-high-speed-rail-competitor\/","title":{"rendered":"Tarragona via a Renfe Competitor"},"content":{"rendered":"

Tarragona<\/a> is a Catalan port city near the high-speed rail route linking Barcelona and Madrid. The ancient Romans called it Tarraco<\/em>, built a shore side amphitheatre<\/a> and a circus<\/a> for chariot races. Tarragona has beaches, a touristy old town and a cathedral,<\/a> one of Catalonia’s largest.<\/p>\n

I hankered for a visit, and also craved a trial ride aboard Iryo<\/a>, which debuted high-speed Spain rail service last November. My inner masochist also may have longed to repeat my 2019 blunder<\/a> of booking an August day trip without a respectful study of the weather forecast. Consequences rued below.<\/p>\n

\"Tarragona<\/a>
Tarragona amphitheatre | CC BY-SA 3.0 by Sbjf<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\n

First: what’s a Iryo?<\/p>\n

The high-speed trains gushed about in posts<\/a> past were all operated by Renfe<\/a>, Spain’s state-owned national passenger railway company. In 2021, Spain opened its tracks<\/a> to Renfe competitors. The first was France’s Ouigo<\/a>, which competes mostly on price. Iryo, in contrast, also hopes to compete on ride experience, with first class service tiers and gourmet-ish dining options<\/a> for rail-riding foodies.<\/p>\n

\"Iryo<\/a>
Iryo train at Atocha station in Madrid<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I splurged on Infinita Bistr\u00f3<\/em><\/a> tickets. These include Gran Confort XL<\/em> seats in the first class car, and wannabe gastronome meals. My online ticket purchase was grief free, even with a U.S. credit card, with one exception: iryo.eu wouldn’t let me pick a desired seat. \u00a1No me cortes el rollo!<\/em><\/a> Your shamelessly persnickety blogger called Iryo for a seat reassignment, so I might wiggle a contented rump in the single seat shown and sip a cortado<\/em> while watching Spain scenery zip by at 290 km\/h +. Transit geek Valhalla!<\/p>\n

\"Seat<\/a>
Seat in Iryo train<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Iryo public relations might appreciate an insincere gush about the food. Sorry, guys; this blog is non-commercial. I’d rate my Infinita Bistr\u00f3<\/em> meals as a shallow notch above a good airline meal, with irritatingly skimpy portions. I could have had as many drinks as desired, though, and service was excellent.<\/p>\n

As for the experience at the train station: the shot below shows the departures screen I saw when I arrived at Madrid’s Atocha rail hub.<\/p>\n

\"Departures<\/a>
Departures display, Atocha station<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

See the mix of Renfe, Iryo and Ouigo rides? If you arrive with a ticket, boarding an Iryo shouldn’t be any tougher than boarding a Renfe. Aggregator web site thetrainline.com<\/a> allows travelers to compare prices and travel times.<\/p>\n

\n

I can<\/strong><\/span> gush unreservedly about Tarragona. Two thumbs up! Three<\/em> thumbs, if I were a lemur<\/a>. Well-worth visiting! The cathedral, the old town, the circus, the amphitheatre, the beaches, the Casa Museo Castellarnau<\/a>, and the Balc\u00f3n del Mediterr\u00e1neo<\/a>, affording spectacular views of the eponymous sea.<\/p>\n

\"Interior<\/a>
Interior of Casa Museo Castellarnau<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

But not on a scorcher in August. It is one thing to brave dog day temps for a two block stroll between metro and climate-controlled caf\u00e9, another to endure the same for an all-day tramp under a pitiless sun. I recognized my mistake by the time I rounded onto the Rambla Nova from the bus station, spent most of the day trying to compensate for it, like a boxer trying to get through a bout with a bad rib. I clung to shadows, dawdled in cool places, and, at afternoon’s end, practically melted onto a bench by the waterfront Balc\u00f3n<\/em>, overlooking the amphitheatre. It was a bit cooler here.<\/p>\n

\"Tarragona<\/a>
Tarragona Cathedral<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Where will I go in August, ’26, if determined to repeat this mistake every three years? Abu Dhabi? Riyadh?<\/p>\n

\n

I mentioned a bus station.<\/p>\n

You won’t have to eyeball a Tarragona map long to spot Estaci\u00f3 de Tarragona<\/em> on the waterfront (especially with a helpful link<\/a>), and you’ll be forgiven for assuming that all Tarragona trains must stop there.<\/p>\n

Alas, not so. The high speed trains stop at Camp<\/strong><\/span> de Tarragona<\/a>, a middle-of-mostly-nowhere whistle stop in the Tarragona hinterlands. The rail-riding Spain tourist will face a similar predicament when researching train travel to Cuenca or Segovia. The high-speed lines serve stations on the outskirts.<\/p>\n

So how do you get from Camp de Tarragona to visit-able, touristy Tarragona? Many would board a taxi. Purists like me will opt for a bus, operated by Planas<\/a>, which links Camp de Tarragona to the above-mentioned bus station<\/a>.<\/p>\n

I don’t remember what I paid. Wasn’t much. I do<\/em> remember that I could pay in cash when boarding at Camp de Tarragona, but had to buy a ticket inside the bus station at the Planas ticket window for the return trip. Fig\u00farate.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Tarragona is a Catalan port city near the high-speed rail route linking Barcelona and Madrid. The ancient Romans called it Tarraco, built a shore side amphitheatre and a circus for chariot races. Tarragona has beaches, a touristy old town and a cathedral, one of Catalonia’s largest. I hankered for a visit, and also craved a… <\/p>\n

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